Posted by: Wayne | June 17, 2010

Seat fronts

The past several days have been taken with preparing bulkheads 1,2 and 3 for installation.  This involved cutting holes for the access panels in bulkheads 2 and 3, as well as cutting doublers.  Unfortunately, there are no pictures from these parts.  I did find a mistake from when I lofted and cut bulkhead 1.  Interestingly, I caught this mistake while making the doublers.  Bulkheads 1,2 and 3 are full width, so I couldn’t stack them for symmetry while cutting.  To help with a symmetric curve on the top of bulkheads 1 and 2, I planed the doubler to match the top curve.  I then flipped the doubler over and again planed them to match.  This made both sides the same.  When I flipped the doubler for bulkhead 1, I discovered that something was awry.  The width at the gunwale was 10mm wider on one side.  Fortunately, the narrow side was correct.  I was able to fix the problem with a simple application of the jigsaw.  A good reminder to measure carefully.

I also lofted and cut out the seat fronts.  These are a little over 2 meters long, so they are the longest plywood pieces to date.

Cutting seat fronts.

Our littlest supervisor.

Gabriel's first steps - towards power tools. What a boy!

A boatbuilder's secret weapon - a block plane. It is amazing what you can do with one of these.

As before, I stacked them before cutting, so I ended up with two identical pieces.  I then cut out the access ports, as on bulkheads 2 and 3.

Test fitting the access port.

Seat fronts

Access port doublers - the centers will be cut out later.

I also cut out the doublers for the round access ports.  I will cut the centers out after I laminate them onto bulkhead 3 and the seat fronts.  The line is to aid alignment when laminating.

In conclusion, a couple of points I have noticed with doubler gluing already accomplished:

  • A notched spreader works very well to spread epoxy.
  • Planning your glue-up and making sure everything is at hand REALLY helps.
  • I am using screws instead of clamps.  This helps with alignment.  As long as you have pre-drilled and test-fit the pieces, you know the alignment is right when you drive the screws.  You don’t have to worry about things sliding.
  • Screws are MUCH cheaper than clamps.
  • Holes can be filled.
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