Posted by: Wayne | January 3, 2013

Navigator rigging

Due to a few questions from my friend over on, I thought it might be a good time to show a few more details of how Good Enough is rigged.

Starting with the forward cockpit (click to embiggen):

The main downhaul and the forward halyards

The main downhaul and the forward halyards







How the main downhaul and forward halyards penetrate the deck

How the main downhaul and forward halyards penetrate the deck

Moving aft to the port side deck (starboard is simply a mirror image):

Port side deck rigging.

Port side deck rigging.

Finally, we come to the after deck:

After deck rigging

After deck rigging

I make no claims as to this setup being superior to any other.  This is simply the layout I have arrived at.

A couple of observations based on my (admittedly limited) experience with this boat:

  • The mizzen sheet really doesn’t need a block at the aft end of the bumpkin.  If I were to do it over again, I would go with just a fairlead.
  • The mizzen sheet is easily reached from either side, and is within a few inches of the center of the boat.
  • I originally set up the mainsheet with a single and becket on the boom and a ratchet fiddle on the rear deck.  If I were doing it again, I would probably use a single on the boom, and a single and becket on the rear deck.  With the ratchet the sheet never really gets too heavy to handle.
  • I originally used 9mm double braid for the jib sheets.  That was WAY too thick/heavy.  I have a small metal fairlead on the forward side of each jib camcleat to facilitate cleating, and the original sheets were not running freely.  I am now using 8mm single braid.  It runs much better and is just as easy to handle.
  • Originally I put the main downhaul on the deck and the main and jib halyards on the mast.  The new setup, with the halyards going through turning blocks and the downhaul below the deck is much more convenient and safer (less leaning out of a boat to deal with the downhaul).
  • The current setup only gives about 8″ (200 mm) of adjustment for the main downhaul.  This works just fine as long as you sweat the main halyard tight, then take up the final slack with the downhaul.  It also allows me to get the tack of the mainsail much closer to the deck.
  • The midships mooring cleats are very useful for mooring and/or man-handling the boat around the dock.
  • There are 3 little fender hooks on each side.  These make it very easy to simply hang the fenders by a loop of light line, and also to retrieve them.  Highly recommended.
  • There are also a pair of mooring cleats on each side of the aft deck, and a single large one forward.  As long as they don’t foul your sheets, having this many cleats is very convenient.

Feel free to ask any other questions that come to mind in the comments.  Obviously, take my opinions with a grain of salt.  If you think there is a good reason not to do things my way, you may well be right!




  1. Great write-up. Thanks

    SCAMPer, #11, Noddy

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